Sunday, December 31, 2017

Blog Recap 2017

After retiring in December 2016, this blog became my home for writing about travel adventures. Below is a summary of my 2017 posts here.

We started the year with brunch with family and friends followed by a snowshoe hike:
In January and February we drove to Florida for a 3 week road trip. I wrote 21 posts about that trip, which you can find in:
After returning home, I blogged about three small adventures in late winter and early spring:
In May we had an adventure right at home!
Also in May we took a trip to Connecticut and New York City, with a stop in Massachusetts on the way home:
In May and June we took a 2 week road trip Nova Scotia by way of Maine and New Brunswick. We had a great time, but I didn't do well at blogging that trip. Only three posts:
Other places in Nova Scotia we visited: the Annapolis Valley, Wolfville (The Blomidon Inn), Grand-PrĂ© National Historic Site, Halifax, the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Ingonish (Keltic Lodge), Sydney, the Fortress of Louisbourg, Parrsboro (The Maple Inn), Cape D'Or. We saw a tidal bore in Truro – a first for me. We also spent a night in Moncton, New Brunswick, on the way home. It was a delightful trip.

When Nancy and I retired, she had about 50 miles left to complete the Long Trail. We hiked those miles together, in four day hikes in July, August and September. I had fun both hiking and blogging about it, including interesting things we learned along the way:
I finished the year with posts about three small adventures:
There were several travel adventures in 2017 that didn't get blogged: seeing the Tall Ships in Boston in June; an "escape room" on a different trip to Boston; Minute Man National Historic Park; hikes up Mount Mansfield, Snake Mountain and Laraway Mountain; numerous other small hikes; the Tunbridge World's Fair; two outings to Huntington River Vineyard for their Sunday Supper Dinner Series; a visit to Ayers Brook Goat Farm; a "Happily Ever After Party" in October on the coast of Maine (Kelly and Scott); and other trips to Maine to visit family. A pretty good year!

I write on two blogs. This blog, The Switchel Traveler, is for travel adventures in the physical world. My other blog, The Switchel Philosopher, is for adventures in the world of ideas. See my About page for more information about switchel, me, my two blogs, and my blogging history.

Sunday, December 24, 2017

Milton Pond

Milton Pond lies within the Milton Town Forest. The photo above shows the outlet of this 33 acre pond, which used to be part of the municipal water supply for the town of Milton, Vermont.

We had celebrated Thanksgiving by hiking around ponds in Massachusetts, and today we continued that practice in Vermont for the Christmas holiday by hiking around Milton Pond. This time we had 6" of snow on the ground, as compared to bare ground at Thanksgiving. We were joined by friends including Kona the dog:

There are several trails in the Milton Town Forest. Our hike around the pond today was 3.75 miles. We did not use snowshoes. The following map is from the link in the first sentence above:

We met Brian Pease who lives next to the Milton Town Forest and works on the trails. Northern Vermont experienced a powerful windstorm two months ago, on the night of October 29-30, and Brian talked about cutting up and clearing more than 100 trees that had fallen across the trails during that storm. We appreciated his hard work!

Monday, November 27, 2017

Walden Pond and Fresh Pond

I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.

Henry David Thoreau wrote those words in Walden; or, Life in the Woods about living in a small cabin near Walden Pond in Concord, Mass. The photo above was taken from where his cabin was located. Walden Pond is visible through the trees.

It was a small cabin, only 10'x15', which Thoreau built himself. He lived there for two years, two months, and two days – from just before his 28th birthday in 1845 to just after his 30th birthday in 1847. (Thoreau only lived to age 44.)

We visited Walden Pond State Reservation over the Thanksgiving holiday. Thoreau's original cabin no longer exists, but a replica stands near the park entrance, along with a statue of Thoreau:

Below is a better photo of the statue:

Our timing was fortunate. There is considerable interest in Henry David Thoreau this year, the 200th anniversary of his birth. The park features a new (2016) visitor center with informative exhibits, a gift shop well stocked with books, and a very new* Ken Burns documentary film. You can watch the film at the link.

*The film premiered at Boston College on November 8, 2017.

We celebrated Thanksgiving this year in Cambridge, MA instead of Cambridge, VT. There is another notable pond in Cambridge, MA – Fresh Pond, part of the municipal water system for Cambridge. The photo below is Fresh Pond at dusk, with a sliver of a new moon reflected in the water.

Fresh Pond and Walden Pond are about 12 miles apart. Both ponds are heavily visited by the public, but they are quite different. Walden Pond retains its rural character, while Fresh Pond is surrounded by development. One can swim and fish at Walden Pond, but not at Fresh Pond. On the other hand, no pets are allowed at Walden Pond, while dogs are numerous on the path around Fresh Pond.

In the photo below, the building is the Cambridge Water Department on the edge of Fresh Pond. The sign says "Envision Cambridge" and the bicycles are part of Hubway.

We walked around a pond every day this Thanksgiving weekend, either Fresh Pond or Walden Pond.

Saturday, October 28, 2017

Billings Farm and Museum

The Billings Farm and Museum in Woodstock, Vermont, is a wonderful place to visit on a nice fall day – or anytime when it is open. This is a working farm, with cows, sheep, chickens and draft horses, as well as modern tractors to work the fields that grow the crops to feed the animals. The Jersey cows raised and milked here have been winning awards since the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago. Some of the milk from the farm goes to Grafton Village Cheese Company where it is made into three different kinds of cheddar cheese with the Billings Farm label. Nancy and I purchased some Woodstock Reserve Cheddar when we visited yesterday.

The Billings Farm and Museum is also a museum of farm life as it existed on Vermont hill farms around 1900. The indoor exhibits contain a wide variety of farm machinery and implements. I do not recall ever seeing a more complete or better preserved collection. Both Nancy and I remarked how much fun it would have been to have toured the exhibits with our fathers, and hear their stories of growing up with some of those implements on farms in Cambridge and Royalton in the 1920s and 1930s. The museum also includes exhibits about life in the home and community, including a country store and even a display about town meeting.

Frederick Billings (1823-1890) grew up in Royalton and Woodstock, becoming a lawyer before heading west in the gold rush of 1849. He made a fortune in California, and returned east to New York City in 1861. He also made money in the railroad business (Northern Pacific Railway) in the 1870s and early 1880s.

Billings loved Woodstock, and in 1869 he purchased the 270-acre farm belonging to the family of George Perkins Marsh. Billings poured resources into the farm, which eventually grew to nearly 1,000 acres and more than 100 workers. A significant part of the early success of the Billings Farm was farm manager George Aitken, whom Billings hired in 1884. The photo above is the fully restored 1890 farm house built for George Aitken and his family. The house included an office for the farm manager, a creamery in the basement for the production of butter, and an attached ice house for butter storage. Aitken was farm manager until his death in 1910.

After Billings died in 1890, the farm was carried on by his widow and daughters. The Great Depression brought hard times to the farm, but it also brought the 1934 wedding in Woodstock of Mary French, a granddaughter of Frederick Billings, to conservationist Laurance Rockefeller. They inherited the farm when Mary's mother died in 1951 and set about modernizing it. They opened the Billings Farm and Museum to the public in 1983, nearly 50 years after their wedding and nearly 100 years after George Aitken had been hired by Mary's grandfather.

Frederick Billings and the Rockefellers were influenced by the life and writings of George Perkins Marsh, mentioned above. George Perkins Marsh (1801-1882) was a brilliant scholar and diplomat who had grown up on that farm. At the time Billings purchased the farm from the Marsh family in 1869, George Perkins Marsh was serving as the United States ambassador to Italy, a post he held from 1861 until his death in 1882.

In 1864 George Perkins Marsh published the book Man and Nature about the effect of human action, especially deforestation, on the environment. This influential book helped launch the modern conservation movement. Frederick Billings saw themes in this book that resonated with his observations in the denuded gold fields of California and even in his native Vermont at the time. Billings established his model farm in Woodstock, on the farm where Marsh had grown up, to demonstrate "principles of efficiency, sustainability, and responsible land use" as espoused by Marsh. (source) Succeeding generations continued this conservationist ethic on the Marsh farm as noted above.

Today the Billings Farm and Museum is on one side of Route 12 and the Marsh - Billings - Rockefeller National Historic Park is on the other side. They are both well worth a visit.

UPDATE 11/01/17: For more about George Perkins Marsh, see this post on my other blog.

Saturday, September 23, 2017

Nancy Finishes the Long Trail

Nancy finished hiking the Long Trail today! The photo above is celebrating on the summit of Mount Abraham with family and friends.

Today's hike was from Appalachian Gap south to Lincoln Gap. The photo below is in App Gap at the beginning of the hike, just as the sun was rising:

Emily, Laura, Eliza and Dylan (and their dog Kona) hiked with us from App Gap. It was a beautiful day, with good views. Not much color in the fall foliage yet. This section of the Long Trail is along the top of a ridge with several ski areas on the east side – Mad River Glen, Sugarbush North, and Sugarbush South. Below is the famous single-chair ski lift at Mad River Glen Ski Area:

The photo below was the view from Sugarbush South Ski Area:

There are five 4000 foot peaks in Vermont, and we hiked over two of them today: Mount Ellen (4083') and Mount Abraham (4006'). Mount Ellen has a wooded summit, but the top of Mount Abraham is open. From the Long Trail Guide:

The alpine summit of Mt. Abraham offers one of the best panoramas on the entire LT, ranging from nearby valley farms to New Hampshire's White Mountains, 80 miles east. Due west is Mt. Marcy and its Adirondack neighbors. To the south the Green Mountains may be visible as far south as Killington Peak. To the north, though partly hidden by nearby higher peaks, the Greens may be visible as far as Belvidere Mtn.

We had a beautiful day, but we could not see as far as Belvidere Mountain. The other three 4000 foot peaks in Vermont are Mount Mansfield (4395'), Killington Peak (4235'), and Camels Hump (4083').

Howard, Sue, Bob, Joel, Bill and Donna (and their dog Moia) hiked in from Lincoln Gap and met us on Mount Abraham. The photo at the top of this post shows the whole crew on the summit of Mount Abraham.

Eliza packed cheese and crackers, as well as a cheese board and cheese knife, all the way from App Gap:

We celebrated Nancy's accomplishment in style! There might even have been some champagne and switchel consumed on top of Mount Abraham...

Below is Nancy at the end of the hike in Lincoln Gap:

Congratulations, Nancy!

Today's hike was 11.6 miles. We started at 7:05 AM and finished at 5:20 PM. (We lingered on the summit of Mount Abraham for an hour and 20 minutes.) Nancy's Fitbit registered 35,522 steps, mine registered 38,512.

Nancy is the fourth member of the family to complete the Long Trail. Howard and I and others hiked the LT with Boy Scouts in 1997-2001 (Bob and Joel were on some of those hikes). Laura hiked the LT with Eliza in 2006. Emily hiked the LT with a friend in 2009 (see Emily Hikes the Long Trail). Nancy supported all of those undertakings and hiked portions of the LT herself as part of each of those adventures, but her log of recorded LT hikes for her End to End Journal begins before any of those dates. Nancy's log begins with a short hike to Prospect Rock in 1988, the day before Emily was born.

Thursday, September 7, 2017

Who was Emily Proctor?

The Emily Proctor Shelter (photo above) is on Vermont's Long Trail in the middle of the Breadloaf Wilderness. The Emily Proctor Trail is a side trail that leads from USFS Road 201 to this shelter. Who was Emily Proctor?

I wrote about the Proctor family in my earlier post The Proctor Family. Three generations of the Proctor family led the Vermont Marble Company and provided four Vermont governors. Emily Proctor was part of this family. But which Emily Proctor? My earlier post about the Proctor family listed three Emily Proctors, one in each generation:

1st generation: Emily Proctor (1835-1915) was the wife of Redfield Proctor.

2nd generation: Emily Proctor (1869-1948) was the daughter of Redfield and Emily Proctor.

3rd generation: Emily Proctor (1887-1964) was the daughter of Fletcher and Minnie Proctor, and granddaughter of Redfield and Emily Proctor.

The Green Mountain Club (GMC) publishes a book titled Place Names on Vermont's Long Trail. This book says the following (1st edition, 2007):

Emily Proctor Shelter - This shelter, built in 1960 and rebuilt in 1983 and 2002, honors Emily Proctor, for whom a previous shelter was named early in GMC history. In 1914, she gave $500 to the GMC for the construction of three shelters.

Alas, that does not tell us which of the three Emily Proctors is being honored. All three of the Emily Proctors mentioned above were alive in 1914.

In my earlier post The Long Trail Lodge, I wrote about Mortimer Proctor (1889-1968) who was the son of Fletcher and Minnie Proctor and thus brother of Emily Proctor (1887-1964) in the third generation of Proctors. I mentioned that Mortimer Proctor was twice president of the Green Mountain Club, which built and maintains Vermont's Long Trail. But nothing in that post, either, tells us which Emily Proctor the shelter and trail are named for.

The Proctor family was "the GMC's wealthiest patrons" in the early years of the Green Mountain Club (source: On the Trail: A History of American Hiking by Silas Chamberlin (Yale University Press, 2016), page 119). In my earlier post The Long Trail Lodge, I explained how Mortimer Proctor and his mother gave the Long Trail Lodge in Sherburne Pass to the Green Mountain Club in 1923. But which Emily Proctor gave $500 for three shelters in 1914? Mortimer's grandmother, aunt, and sister were all named Emily Proctor!

Construction of the Long Trail began in 1910 and was completed in 1930. Mileage was added throughout that period. The book On the Trail notes that more than 50 miles of trail were added in 1913 between Camel's Hump and Killington Peak, and goes on to say:

With the additional mileage, the club began to construct log lean-tos that would provide temporary shelter for hikers. The first were built at Birch Glen, at Broad Loaf Glen [sic], and south of Mount Horrid with the private funds of Emily Dutton Proctor, the philanthropist daughter of Redfield Proctor, founder of the Vermont Marble Company and U.S. Senator from Vermont.

(Source: On the Trail, page 118. Should be Bread Loaf or Breadloaf not Broad Loaf.)

Bingo! Emily Dutton Proctor was the Emily Proctor (1869-1948) in the second generation of Proctors. She was Mortimer's aunt. She was a noted philanthropist – known, for example, for collecting foreign-language and picture books for the immigrant workers of the Vermont Marble Company and their children.

I wish to thank John Page, the current president of the Green Mountain Club, for solving this mystery for me by finding the above reference in On the Trail. John further wrote the following to me in an email:

The shelter "south of Mt. Horrid" that Emily Proctor also funded was the original Sunrise Shelter, just south of Brandon Gap. This shelter was replaced in the 1960's by the current Sunrise Shelter with funds donated by Mortimer Proctor. Thus the current Sunrise Shelter appears to be the last remnant of the Proctor family's GMC legacy other than the name of Emily Proctor Shelter.

Full disclosure: I am related to John Page, a cousin. John Page's aunt, Jane Clark Brown, and my father, Harold Putnam, co-authored a book in 2001 titled Cloverdale: An Anecdotal History of A Rural Neighborhood. My sister Beth and I used this book as the basis for a presentation in July for the Cambridge and Westford Historical Societies on the history of Cloverdale. Minnie Robinson Proctor, Mortimer's mother, grew up in Cloverdale. It's a small world.

The Long Trail Lodge

The Long Trail Lodge was built in Sherburne Pass in 1923 and served as a grand hotel on Vermont's Long Trail until it burned in 1968. By all accounts it was spectacular. The Long Trail Lodge also served as the headquarters of the Green Mountain Club, which built and maintains the Long Trail, the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the United States.

Today US-4 passes through Sherburne Pass in the town of Killington. The Inn at Long Trail sits on the north side of US-4 directly under Deer Leap Mountain and continues the hospitality tradition of the former Long Trail Lodge, which had been just across the road. See my earlier post about The Inn at Long Trail, where Nancy and I stayed last month after a long day-hike on the Long Trail. Nancy is finishing hiking the Long Trail this year, and all of the posts on this blog since July have been related to that project.

The Long Trail Lodge was built and donated to the Green Mountain Club by the Proctor family. I have become interested this summer in some of the history of this prominent Vermont family, especially Minnie Robinson from Cloverdale who married into the family in 1886. See my earlier post about The Proctor Family for background and who's who in the Proctor family.

Three generations of the Proctor family led the Vermont Marble Company and provided four Vermont governors. For this post, we are particularly interested in Minnie Robinson Proctor (1865-1928) who married Fletcher Proctor (1860-1911), and their son Mortimer Proctor (1889-1968). Both Fletcher and Mortimer were governors of Vermont, as were two other members of the Proctor family.

The idea of Vermont's Long Trail was conceived by James Taylor in 1909. The Green Mountain Club (GMC) was formed in 1910 to build the trail, completing the task in 1930.

Mortimer Proctor played a significant role in the early years of the GMC. The first four presidents of the GMC were:
  1. James P. Taylor 1910-1916
  2. Mortimer R. Proctor 1916-1917
  3. Charles P. Cooper 1917-1925
  4. Mortimer R. Proctor 1926-1933
Thus Mortimer Proctor was president when the Long Trail was completed in 1930, and he was the only person in the history of the GMC to have been its president twice.

The Proctor family was "the GMC's wealthiest patrons" in the early years of the club (source: On the Trail: A History of American Hiking by Silas Chamberlin (Yale University Press, 2016), page 119). When the growing GMC expressed the need for a clubhouse, Mortimer Proctor and his mother, Minnie Robinson Proctor, provided it:

In 1922 came the exciting news that a clubhouse was assured and would be built the next year at Sherburne Pass where the trail crossed the highway. President Mortimer Proctor telegraphed from Los Angeles to Acting-President Cooper, "I wish to donate complete the new Green Mountain Club House to be built near Deer Leap on Sherburne Pass." With his mother, Mrs. F. P. Proctor, he generously gave the land and money to build what was long considered to be the home of the Green Mountain Club.

(Source: Green Mountain Adventure, Vermont's LONG TRAIL, An Illustrated History, by Jane and Will Curtis and Frank Lieberman (The Green Mountain Club, 1985), page 39. Mortimer's father, Fletcher Proctor, had died in 1911.)

The Long Trail Lodge, built in 1923, was no ordinary back-country lodge:

The most agreeable example of rustic architecture on the trail is the Long Trail Lodge opposite Deer Leap in Sherburne Pass, the lodge being the gift of Mortimer R. Proctor and the furnishings the gift of [his mother] Mrs. Fletcher D. Proctor. These two lovers of Vermont, with the aid of Architect [Paul] Thayer, have done something exceptional not only in the appointment of the lodge itself but in the surroundings, and as it is at a junction of the Trail and a main automobile road, it can be more readily reached and seen than it can be described.

(Source: Footpath in the Wilderness edited by W. Storrs Lee (Middlebury College Press, 1941), pages 31-32.)

Visitors never forgot their amazement when they entered the lobby whose walls weren't wood and plaster but a huge fern-covered rock ledge down which trickled a miniature waterfall. The club was particularly pleased with the effect of the dining room. The architect had left bark on the yellow birch beams and had designed a great chandelier of ten lights made of white birchlimbs with shades of birch bark. ... The most astonishing feature of the Lodge was that the Long Trail went right through the building!

(Source: Green Mountain Adventure, pages 39-41.)

On September 12, 1931, a grand celebration was held at the Long Trail Lodge in recognition of the completion of the Long Trail the year before and the "coming of age" (21st birthday) of the GMC:

James Taylor called the lodge – the gift of club president and future governor Mortimer R. Proctor and his mother – the "finest mountain camp in the world." The festivity began with speeches by Governor Stanley C. Wilson, Dorothy Canfield Fisher, Will Monroe, Taylor, and others.

(Source: A Century in the Mountains: Celebrating Vermont's Long Trail edited by Tom Slayton (The Green Mountain Club, 2009), page 47.)

The Long Trail Lodge served as headquarters for the GMC for more than 30 years. It was also a grand hotel, but the GMC ultimately tired of the hospitality business and owning a property that was expensive to maintain. The GMC sold the lodge in 1955. Sadly, it burned during a blizzard on November 8, 1968. Mortimer Proctor did not live to see that. He died at age 78 in April 1968.

I wish to thank the Green Mountain Club, especially President John Page and Executive Director Michael DeBonis, for the references in this post – for suggesting books in print that I could purchase, and for lending me books that are out of print. I recommend the following books for anyone wishing to do further research:

Green Mountain Adventure, Vermont's LONG TRAIL, An Illustrated History, by Jane and Will Curtis and Frank Lieberman (The Green Mountain Club, 1985). See pages 39-41, 60-61, 66, 72-73. There are photos on many of these pages. This book was written in recognition of the GMC's 75th anniversary.

A Century in the Mountains: Celebrating Vermont's Long Trail, edited by Tom Slayton (The Green Mountain Club, 2009). See pages 47, 52. There is a photo of the interior of the Long Trail Lodge on page 47 as well as considerable information about the lodge, especially the grand celebration on September 12, 1931. This book was written in recognition of the GMC's 100th anniversary.

So Clear, So Cool, So Grand: A 1931 Hike on Vermont's Long Trail, by James Gordon Hindes (The Green Mountain Club, 2008). See pages 2, 33-37. This is one of the first accounts of a Long Trail end-to-end hike, undertaken by James Gordon Hindes (1909-1973) in the summer of 1931, between his junior and senior years at Dartmouth College, together with his fraternity brother John Eames. The Long Trail had been completed just the year before. The young men arrived at the Long Trail Lodge on July 18 and left on July 20. They were enchanted by it. Their visit was two months before the grand celebration noted above. The photo at the top of this post is from page 2 of this book, an undated view of Pico Peak and the Long Trail Lodge from Deer Leap Mountain, courtesy of the Vermont Historical Society.

The Proctor Family

The Proctor family was prominent in Vermont history. The town of Proctor, just north of Rutland, Vermont's second largest city, was named for this family. High quality marble deposits in this area were quarried by the Vermont Marble Company from the 1880s to the 1980s. Three generations of Proctors led the Vermont Marble Company and provided four Vermont governors:

1st generation: Redfield Proctor (1831-1908) founded the Vermont Marble Company in 1880. He had been a colonel in the Civil War and governor of Vermont 1878-1880. He went on to be Secretary of War 1889-1891 and a United States Senator from Vermont 1891-1908. He married Emily Jane Dutton in 1858.

2nd generation: Redfield and Emily Proctor had five children over a period of 20 years: Arabella (b. 1859), Fletcher (b. 1860), Fanny (b. 1863), Emily (b. 1869) and Redfield, Jr. (b. 1879). Both sons were governor of Vermont: Fletcher Proctor (1860-1911) was governor 1906-1908 and Redfield Proctor, Jr. (1879-1957) was governor 1923-1925. Fletcher Proctor married Minnie Robinson in 1886.

3rd generation: Fletcher and Minnie Proctor had three children: Emily (b. 1887), Mortimer (b. 1889) and Minnie (b. 1895). Their son was governor of Vermont: Mortimer Proctor (1889-1968) was governor 1945-1947.

Why am I writing about the Proctor family? Two things about the Proctor family are connected to subjects that I have been blogging about this summer.

First, the Proctor family played a significant role in the history of the Green Mountain Club and Vermont's Long Trail. Nancy is finishing hiking the Long Trail this summer, and all of the posts on this blog since July have been related to that project.

Second, Minnie Robinson Proctor came from Cloverdale. My sister Beth and I mentioned Minnie in our presentation about the history of Cloverdale that we did together in July for the Cambridge and Westford Historical Societies.

In our Cloverdale presentation, Beth and I said about Minnie: "Cloverdale was always proud of its own First Lady of Vermont." We talked about the wedding of Minnie Robinson to Fletcher Proctor at the Robinson house on the Cloverdale Farm in 1886 (photo above). We knew that she married into a prominent family. We knew that her father-in-law had been governor of Vermont. We knew that her husband, and their future son Mortimer, would become governors of Vermont.

At the time of our Cloverdale presentation, I did not know about the connections between the Proctor family, including Minnie herself, and the Long Trail. I write about those connections in the next two blog posts: The Long Trail Lodge and Who was Emily Proctor?

Saturday, August 26, 2017

The Breadloaf Wilderness

The portion of Vermont's Long Trail between Lincoln Gap and Middlebury Gap (VT-125) lies within the Breadloaf Wilderness. The Long Trail Guide says that in federally designated wilderness areas:

You will find that signs are less frequent and often omit mileage figures, trail blazing and brush cutting are limited, bridges, if any, are generally primitive, and there are occasional stream fords.

Nancy and I hiked this section of the Long Trail yesterday. We did not encounter any stream fords. Nor did we encounter many people – only 11 or 12 people all day, in ones and twos, all headed northbound. We hiked southbound from Lincoln Gap to Middlebury Gap. The photo above is Nancy signing in at the beginning of our hike in Lincoln Gap at 6:10 AM. The sign at the right says "Breadloaf Wilderness / Green Mountain National Forest."

This portion of the Long Trail is sometimes called Vermont's Presidential Range because it includes Mounts Grant, Cleveland, Roosevelt and Wilson. At 3400 to 3800 feet, the summits are much lower than New Hampshire's famous Presidential Range, and there are few views. Not even the highest elevation on our hike yesterday, Breadloaf Mountain at 3835 feet, had a view. One of the few places on our hike with a view was Killington View, shown below:

We hiked by four shelters yesterday:
This photo shows Skyline Lodge:

Skyline Lodge overlooks Skylight Pond, which is the headwater of the White River:

Near the end of our hike was a 0.4 mile side trail out to Silent Cliff where we understand there is a beautiful vista. We left that for another day. The photo below shows Nancy at the end of our hike in Middlebury Gap at 6:50 PM:

The sign at the left says "Breadloaf Wilderness / Green Mountain National Forest."

We were on the trail for nearly 13 hours. It was a good day for hiking, with no bugs, temps in the upper 50s and low 60s, no rain, mostly cloudy, not too muddy. Mileage was 17.3 miles on the Long Trail plus 0.1 mile each way to Skyline Lodge for a total of 17.5 miles. My Fitbit registered 55,036 steps for the day. Nancy's registered 53,136. We may never break those records.

Saturday, August 12, 2017

The Inn at Long Trail

After completing our hike on the Long Trail to US-4, Nancy and I stayed overnight at the Inn at Long Trail in Killington, Vermont:

Live Irish music in McGrath's Irish Pub, Guinness on tap, a delicious dinner, and a shower and bed sure beat a two hour drive home after 15 miles on the trail. We did not stay up long.

Nor did we, on this trip, hike to the top of the cliff in the photo above. That is Deer Leap Mountain. I understand the views are spectacular, but it is not on the Long Trail and therefore it was not on our itinerary for this trip. Another time.

At breakfast this morning, I was interested to read the history of the Inn at Long Trail and McGrath's Irish Pub:

It's a storied history beginning in 1923, even making the New York Times at one point. (Click on the image to enlarge.) The last sentence reads:

In July 1977 Kyran and Rosemary McGrath purchased the lodge renaming it "The Inn at Long Trail", and created "McGrath's Irish Pub", the first in Vermont to serve Guinness on draft.

The first sentence is also interesting:

The Long Trail Lodge [the original name] itself was conceived by Mortimer R. Proctor as a clubhouse for the Green Mountain Club.

My sister Beth and I recently mentioned Mortimer Proctor in our history of Cloverdale presentation that we did together for the Cambridge and Westford Historical Societies. We grew up in the 1950s and 1960s on the Putnam Farm at one end of the Cloverdale neighborhood. Mortimer Proctor's mother, Minnie Robinson Proctor, grew up in the 1860s and 1870s on the Cloverdale Farm at the other end of the Cloverdale neighborhood. Why was this noteworthy? Mortimer's grandfather, father, uncle, and Mortimer Robinson Proctor himself were all governors of Vermont. We said in our presentation: "Cloverdale was always proud of its own First Lady of Vermont."

Friday, August 11, 2017

Long Trail to US-4

Today Nancy and I hiked the Long Trail from David Logan Shelter to US-4 (southbound). The photo below is about 2/3 of the way through our hike at Rolston Rest Shelter:

Vermont's Long Trail is the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the United States, dating from 1910. This 270-mile long hiking trail runs along the spine of the Green Mountains in Vermont from Massachusetts to Canada. The Long Trail (LT) inspired Benton MacKaye to propose the idea of the Appalachian Trail (AT) in 1921. The AT eventually became a 2,100-mile long hiking trail from Springer Mountain in Georgia to Mount Katahdin in Maine.

The AT and the LT coincide in southern Vermont, parting ways at "Maine Junction" in Willard Gap (see photo below). Maine Junction was on our hike today, toward the end, just north of US-4. From here, the AT heads east to New Hampshire and Maine, while the LT continues north to Canada.

Our hike took us to the east of Chittenden Reservoir, which we occasionally glimpsed through the trees (alas no good photos of the reservoir). This portion of the Long Trail crosses both public and private land. Vermont prides itself on having a "working landscape" as noted in this sign that we saw on a downed tree:

The three logos on the sign above are of the Green Mountain Club, the United States Forest Service (USFS), and the Vermont Department of Forests, Parks and Recreation. The Green Mountain Club maintains the Long Trail in partnership with the respective federal and state agencies.

We saw moose droppings and moose tracks (see photo below next to Nancy's boot), but no moose. However, we did find some blackberries to pick and eat.

The photo below shows where we came out on US-4, looking back (north) at where we had come from. The sign says: "Long/Appalachian Trail North."

Today's hike was easy walking compared to the rugged terrain on portions of our hike last month. We parked one car at the end of USFS Road 99 in Chittenden and hiked in to the David Logan Shelter on the New Boston Trail. We parked a second car at the Inn at Long Trail on US-4 in Killington. Total distance was 14.7 miles: 1.2 miles on the New Boston Trail, 12.7 miles on the LT, and 0.8 miles on US-4. My Fitbit registered 44,161 steps. Nancy's registered 40,673. Neither of us used hiking poles on this hike.

Sunday, July 23, 2017

Long Trail to App Gap

The portion of Vermont's 270-mile Long Trail that lies between the Winooski River and Lincoln Gap (about 30 miles) is known as the Monroe Skyline in honor of Will Monroe (1863-1939), a professor of botany at the University of Vermont who led the effort to build this section of the trail.

Nancy and I hiked the central part of the Monroe Skyline today, from the south side of Camel's Hump south to Appalachian Gap. Including our approach on the Forest City Trail, it was about 12 miles on the trail. The highest point on our hike, a mile south of Montclair Glen Lodge, was Mt. Ethan Allen. See photo above.

We had a nice day for hiking. It started out mostly cloudy and ended mostly sunny. Temps in the low 60s to low 70s. No rain, and not too humid or buggy.

Parts of this section of the Long Trail are rugged, even requiring hardware in one spot north of Burnt Rock Mountain called Ladder Ravine:

We met a fair number of through-hikers and backpackers headed north, from solo hikers to two separate groups from the Farm and Wilderness camps in Plymouth, Vermont. We met no one headed south; no one passed us and we passed no one all day. There were numerous day-hikers on Burnt Rock Mountain who came up the Hedgehog Brook Trail.

On the Long Trail north of Appalachian Gap is a lookout called Molly Stark's Balcony. Below is the view looking northwest. This was near the end of our hike. The tallest mountain in the distance, to the right, is Camel's Hump. We had started our day just this side of Camel's Hump.

Why is there a place in Vermont named for Molly Stark? Wasn't she from New Hampshire? Yes, but her husband, General John Stark, spent time in Vermont fighting the British with assistance from Vermont's Green Mountain Boys. On the morning of the Battle of Bennington (Vermont) on August 16, 1777, General Stark is reported to have said to his men (source):

There are your enemies, the Red Coats and the Tories. They are ours, or this night Molly Stark sleeps a widow!

General Stark and his men won that day, and that victory helped set the stage for the surrender of British General John Burgoyne on October 17, 1777 at Saratoga, New York, a turning point in the American Revolution.

Ethan Allen was the driving force behind the creation of the Green Mountain Boys, but he did not participate in the victories of 1777. He was captured by the British in 1775 and not released until 1778. Colonel Seth Warner led the Green Mountain Boys at the Battle of Bennington.

My Fitbit registered 40,391 steps for the day, while Nancy's registered 30,172. She used hiking poles and I did not, which seemed to affect how the Fitbits counted.

UPDATE 8/16/17: Today is Bennington Battle Day, a state holiday in Vermont. Click here for a recent discussion of the significance of the Battle of Bennington on August 16, 1777.

Monday, May 22, 2017

Digby, Nova Scotia

Today we took the ferry from Saint John, New Brunswick (A) across the Bay of Fundy to Digby, Nova Scotia (B) and then drove to Wolfville (C).

It was about a three hour ferry ride. Our ferry was the MV Fundy Rose, named for Rose Fortune. Below is the ferry while docked in Digby after we got off:

Digby is an active fishing town. The second photo below shows a fishing boat being loaded with ice.

Since the 1920s Digby has been known for the “Digby Scallop.” Below is a scallop fishing boat with nets that will be dragged through scallop beds on the floor of the Bay of Fundy:

The clock below is both a conventional clock and a tide clock. The tide clock has one hand which moves in the usual clockwise direction. The 12 o'clock position is high tide and the 6 o'clock position is low tide. The clock below says that the tide is going out, and it is just over 4 hours to low tide:

Tides in Digby are typically about 25 feet and can exceed 30 feet. Later on our trip we'll see even higher tides elsewhere on the Bay of Fundy.

Sunday, May 21, 2017

Saint John, New Brunswick

Today we drove from Bangor, Maine (A) to Saint John, New Brunswick (B), a drive of just over three hours. The city of Saint John is on the southern edge of the province, where the 400 mile long Saint John River flows into the Bay of Fundy. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

The Bay of Fundy is famous for its high tides, and Saint John is known for the Reversing Falls on the Saint John River caused by those tides:

We did not see the Reversing Falls in action. The Saint John River was too swollen with water from snowmelt and spring rains for the usual effect.

The Reversing Falls occur in a short, narrow gorge and immediately upstream from the gorge. It is a significant tourist attraction, as can be inferred from the sign above. However, we were there before the tourist season had begun and no tourist attractions were open except the outdoor parks on either side of the river—Wolastoq Park and Fallsview Park. A restaurant on the gorge was under renovation; the photo above shows a construction trailer behind the sign.

Below is a view of the gorge from Wolastoq Park on the south side of the river. Spanning the gorge are a highway bridge on the right and a railway bridge to its left. The tourist sign, construction trailer and restaurant are visible at the near end of the highway bridge. The river flows from left to right in this photo:

When open, the restaurant at the Reversing Falls will include a skywalk. The photo below is looking up at the skywalk and restaurant from the south bank of the river:

Wolastoq Park is on a small hill on the south side of the river. Wolastoq (“the beautiful river”) was the name of the river in the language of the Native Americans. The park has great views and contains a dozen or more large wooden statues of figures that are significant in the history of Saint John.

One of the statues in Wolastoq Park is Samuel de Champlain, who in 1604 on his second voyage to the New World as a mapmaker for King Henry IV of France, sailed into the river (as far as the Reversing Falls) on June 24. That is the feast day of Saint John the Baptist, hence the current name of the river and the city. Below is the statue of Champlain:

Another statue in the park is Benedict Arnold, who lived in Saint John for a few years after he wore out his welcome in the American Colonies. He became disliked in Saint John as well, and left for England in 1791. Saint John was a popular city for refugee loyalists from the new United States following the American Revolution.

Wolastoq Park was created in 2004 and is maintained by J.D. Irving Limited, named for James Durgavel (J.D.) Irving, who started business with a sawmill in Bouctouche, NB in 1882. His son Kenneth Colin (K.C.) Irving (1899-1992) built the Irving companies into a formidable business empire. In 1998 Maclean's Magazine named K.C. Irving the most influential Canadian businessman of the 20th century. Below is the statue of K.C. Irving in Wolastoq Park:

Fallsview Park is on the other side of the river, a short ways upstream from the railway bridge. It is one of the best places to view the Reversing Falls. Directly across the river from Fallsview Park is Union Point which has been a site for various mills since the 1830s. The current mill is a pulp mill belonging to the Irving companies. Below is the mill from Wolastoq Park:

In colonial times, Britain and France fought bitterly over eastern Canada. Britain won control over all of Canada in 1763 at the conclusion of the Seven Years War (what we in the U.S. call the French and Indian War), but there remains a significant French influence in many parts of Canada. Both the English and French languages are used by the Canadian federal government, but most provinces privilege one language over the other. The province of Quebec privileges French. Most provinces privilege English. New Brunswick is the only one of the ten Canadian provinces to treat the French and English languages exactly equal. This was evident in all the signs we saw.

Saturday, May 20, 2017

Loggers Expo

The annual Northeastern Forest Products Equipment Exposition, usually called the Loggers Expo, was held in Bangor, Maine, on May 19-20. Paul and I attended today.

There was plenty of big equipment! Shown above is a John Deere 1270G wheeled harvester. Below are John Deere 853M and 853MH tracked feller bunchers/harvesters:

There were also plenty of displays of small equipment, even hand tools. Firewood is being made here:

In the photo above, note the grandstand in the background. It says “Bass Park Home of Bangor State Fair.” The other major building in the fair complex is the Cross Insurance Center, built in 2013. Below is a photo of exhibits inside the arena in the Cross Center:

In front of the Cross Center is a statue of Paul Bunyan, a fictional giant lumberjack who is significant in the folklore of the American timber industry:

But this is not the only statue of Paul Bunyan in Maine! Rumford also has a statue of Paul, accompanied by Babe the Blue Ox:

I won't mention the fact that Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota also claim Paul and Babe as their own.

The Loggers Expo alternates between Bangor in odd years and the Champlain Valley Exposition in Essex Junction, Vermont, in even years. If you have a chance to go, it is worth the price of admission.